Hand-feeding canaries!

A great article about handfeeding by Ginger Wolnik

Unlike breeders of pet parrots, canary breeders usually let the parents do all the feeding of their chicks. This does not mean that you cannot intervene occasionally, especially if you have a bird that hatches a day or two later than its nestmates. Exclusive hand-feeding is an all-day job, but you can sometimes save a "runt" by giving it just one or two booster feedings a day. It is important that newly hatched chicks go to sleep with a full crop their first night, so if you feed a late-hatched bird at dusk, it could make the difference in survival without any additional human feeding. Once a chick gets too weak to beg, it is doomed. Feeding the smallest chick in the nest in the morning can give it the strength to compete all day. So, unless you are a strict "Darwinist," be prepared to hand-feed your canary chicks if it becomes necessary. It is not much bother if you limit yourself to two feedings a day.
The easiest method for hand-feeding is to use a commercial formula. There are several brands; I use Kaytee Exact Handfeeding Formula for Baby Birds. It comes as a powder that you simply mix with warm water as needed. For newly hatched chicks, you can use the wide end of a flat toothpick as a spoon. I also use the metal tool that is used for expanding plastic leg bands because the tip is like a tiny spoon. Mix just a little amount for each feeding; do not save the leftovers for later, the risk of spoilage is not worth it. The tiny chicks are so transparent that you will see the food going into their crop as they eat. When they are full, they will stop begging, then usually sleep.
Try to clean up any spilled food, it can harden and form a crust on the chicks and restrict growth or blood circulation, especially on the feet. Dab with a piece of dry tissue and most of the food will stick to it. Also have a little bowl of water ready to moisten tissue to wipe their faces clean if necessary.
Hookbill hand-feeders usually use a syringe to put the formula directly into the chick's crop, but I do not recommend this for canaries. Just drip or dab the food into the canary's beak like the parents do and the chick will swallow it on its own. Let the chick swallow and breathe between each mouthful. When the crop is full, it will quit begging. Don't try to force it to eat more than it wants. Sometimes, they gape like a yawn and lick or smack their beak clean when they are full. This is not begging, so don't try to force more food at this point. Begging is usually distinguished by wing flapping and cheeping.
Sometimes it can be very difficult to get a new hatched chick or a very weak chick to beg. I found it best to prop them up and tilt the head up so the beak is pointing skyward. Gently stroke them under the chin. Tapping them lightly on the top of the head can also work, that is how the parents wake them when they want them to eat in those rare cases where the chicks don't notice their return. Another trick for feeding the very weak chick is to just put some watery food on the tip of the beak. Even with the beak closed, the chick will realize something is there if it is at all conscious. Then it will open slightly to lick its beak to clean it. That is when you need to be ready to shove in a tiny mouthful! If you can keep the chick and the food warm, it will perk up fairly quickly once food gets to the crop and hopefully open its mouth again so you can put more food in. Don't force food in or overstuff it. Also don't burn the crop with hot food. I keep everything warm by putting the chick and the food in little bowls that float in larger bowls of warm water, the "double boiler" method. Like banding, the more you do this, the easier it gets.
Every canary breeder should keep a supply of hand-feeding formula on hand. Good luck, hope you do not have to do any handfeeding, but please be prepared in case you do.

 Published in the Pacific American Singer

Rene Alssema, the famous Gloster Breeder!

Rene Alssema is one of the greatest breeders in Gloster canaries..He lives in Netherlands and started to keep birds at the age of 10 years.He became a champion in Gloster at the age of fifteen.He is talented for sure.He will explain and describe his fancy.The photos are copyrighted by Rene Alssema...

Tell us, why you choose to breed Glosters...
"In addition to the Gloster also Cresten, Norwichs and Borders cultivated.
Despite good success with these varieties was decided to only continue Gloster in 2003.
Often, it is written that the gloster is a beginner bird.
I like the Gloster still one of the toughest races.
The development of this race never stops and the competition is huge.
The quality of the birds of many growers is very close.
The trick is to maintain quality.
You win based on small differences.
Unfortunately, we see dominating the green or variegated green color.
I am a lover of different colors.
Back in 1983 I wrote in "Our Birds" a comprehensive report on the different colors of the Gloster.
Unfortunately we still see little other colors after many years".

Rene, describe us your birdroom...
 "My Gloster are housed in a residence of six meters long and three meters wide.
The walls are tiled and lying on the floor tiles.
There is central heating and a sink with hot and cold running water.
The breeding cages of the rear wall (laminated chip board with extendable between walls) are 55 cm x 55 cm x 50 cm.
These large breeding cages to be sightseeing flights to 4.50 meters long.
None of the cages are made drawers, because this is an ideal hiding place for pests.
On the right is a 12-piece breeding cage.
Each breeding loft is 60 cm wide, 60 cm deep and 50 cm high. The partition walls are here also pull-out, which may be realized four flights of 180 cm in length". 

Give us a few details about the nutrition that you prefer
 
"I give my bird a seed mix, which also is black seed throughout the year.
Eggfood they receive throughout the year, in the winter months, twice a week.
From my first breeding year he makes a eggfood own "concoction" half consists of plant food and the other half.
The latter consists of an amount of coarse "bread flour" equal to the amount of ready - ready eggfood.
It was added that three hard-boiled eggs, sprouted seed (in nylon stocking), half a tablespoon of seaweed, a half tablespoon brewer's yeast powder and half a tablespoon of grape.
All this is slightly moistened with a dash Roosvicee.

The boy's parents are away, also have regular cooked rice (lots of carbohydrates - and lots of easily digestible quick energy!")

We want to know how Rene Alssema choose his breeding pairs.
 "Compounding the breeding pairs is determined by many factors.
This particular bloodlines play a major role.

Despite the standard, there are many different types of Gloster.
I personally like short and round.
But if you want to improve the crest and color,
which you have to deal quickly with some English and Belgian bloodlines,
whose wings and tails are long and there is no charge in the "ass".

After many years I own a hard core of strong genetic Gloster.
The birds which you know for years what's in and what comes out.
So the cinnamon line is the most stable in my culture.
The type is just ingrained.
Here I grow in very close family connection.
"Especially your taste you have to follow as much as possible."
So I have an aversion to Gloster with loose edges.
Ultimately, I think you should have all the good feather structures in your base and you based compensation should try to cultivate a short, full, round Gloster with a tight spring and a warm color. "

The culture results are carefully recorded in the computer ,
without the use of a special breeding program.

basically continues each couple throughout the breeding season together.
I've had bad experiences with exchange breeding.
Often walked dolls nest whether the eggs were infertile.

Problems in the culture you come every year v.
you work with living material.
If you think that all the growth is in top condition, you have once again one of the most beautiful birds sick.
Connect your paper the ideal combination,
in practice they make each other almost ready and you will need to look for other partners.
Got the boy almost independently, the man picks up the boy's death.
there is something different every year". 

Απεγκλωβισμος νεοσσου απο το αυγο, οδηγιες και video απο τον Κων.Κοσμη!!

Ένα πρόβλημα που αντιμετωπίζουμε στην εσωτερική εκτροφή είναι η χαμηλή υγρασίας Οι νεοσσοί για να έχουν σωστή ανάπτυξη θέλουν σταθερή θερμοκρασία και σταθερή υγρασία . Την θερμοκρασία την μεταφέρουν τα θηλυκά από το σώμα τους η υγρασία ανάλογα με τα καιρικά φαινόμενα έχει διαφορές προς τα πάνω άλλα και προς τα κάτω τις ζεστές ήμερες . Σε κλειστό χώρο είναι θεμιτό να έχουμε αφυγραντιρα άλλα και πάλι δεν είναι σίγουρο ότι στα κάτω κάτω κλουβιά θα έχει το επιθυμητό 65% περίπου .
Στο παρακατω video  δείχνω πως μπορούμε να επέμβουμε ώστε να απεγκλωβίσουμε ένα νεοσσό από το αυγό του .

Πριν ξεκινήσουμε τον απεγκλωβισμό είναι επιβεβλημένο να έχουμε όχι άπλα καθαρά χέρια άλλα απολυμασμένα . Καθαρίζουμε τα χέρια μας καλα με σαπούνι , σκουπίζουμε και απολυμαίνουμε με αντισηπτικό πολύ καλά .Τέλος ξεβγάζουμε πολύ καλά με σκέτο τρεχούμενο νερό .

Έχουμε δει ότι ο νεοσσός έχει κάνει την προσπάθεια του ,έχει κάνει τρυπούλα στο κέλυφος Αφήστε τον περίπου 45 με 50 λεπτά να το παλέψει πριν επέμβετε .

εάν στα 50 λεπτά δεν έχει καταφέρει να απεγκλωβιστεί είναι σίγουρο ότι θα πέθανε από εξάντληση μέσα το κέλυφος

πιάνουμε το αυγό και μια βελόνα από καινούργια σύριγγα Βάζουμε το αυγό στην παλάμη μας με την τρυπούλα προς τα πάνω .

Στο ύψος της τρύπας πιέζουμε οριζόντια και περιμετρικά στο κέλυφος ώστε να νιώσουμε ότι έχει χαραχθεί η έχει σπάσει το τσόφλι . Η πίεση που ασκούμε στο κέλυφος είναι βασικό να ξεκινάει ακριβως στην τρύπα που έχει κάνει ο νεοσσός γιατί εκεί είναι ο λαιμός του διπλωμένος δεν ακουμπάει στο τσόφλι και δεν μπορούμε να του κάνουμε ζημιά . Οπού άλλου προσπαθήσουμε να πιέσουμε είναι πολύ πιθανόν να του τραυματίσουμε κάποιο ζωτικής σημασίας όργανο

Το πιο πιθανόν είναι με το που τελειώσετε την οριζόντια πίεση σε όλη την περίμετρο του αυγού ο νεοσσός θα απεγκλωβιστεί μόνος του με ένα καλό τέντωμα που θα κάνει .

Προσοχή θέλει την ώρα που θα τραβάμε το πίσω κομμάτι  του κελύφους Εκεί μπορεί να βρουμε λιγο αίμα και λιγο κίτρινο υγρό είναι ο ομφαλός του και ο πλακούντας οπου πριν ξεκινήσει τον απεγκλωβισμό του έχει ρουφήξει τον κρόκο από το αυγό .

Γιατί είναι σημαντικό να έχει ξεκινήσει την έξοδο από το κέλυφος ο νεοσσός ? Ετσι ήμαστε σίγουροι ότι έχει απορροφηθεί ο κρόκος και ότι έχει δύναμη να αντεπεξέλθει τις πρώτες ώρες της ζωής του .

Ένα άλλο φαινόμενο είναι να έχει κολλήσει στο κεφάλι του κομμάτι από τσόφλι Λόγο μεγάλης ξηρασίας στο εσωτερικό  μέρος του αυγού .

Σε αυτήν την περίπτωση βρέχουμε ένα βαμβάκι με φυσιολογικό ορό και το  ακουμπάμε στο ξεραμένο τσόφλι ,αυτό απορροφάει υγρασία και έτσι με λεπτές κινήσεις είναι πιο εύκολο να το ξεκολλήσουμε από το κεφάλι του . Προσοχή θέλει πολύ λετες κινησεις καταλαβαίνετε ότι το στρες που έχει υποβληθεί είναι τεράστιο για τον νεοσσό .

Ελπίζω να βοήθησα να σωθεί κάποιος μικρός μας φίλος

Εκτροφέας Κοσμης Κωνσταντίνος (Παγκοσμιος Πρωταθλητης στις ρατσες yorkshire,norwich και crest)

Καρτελλα αναπαραγωγης !

Μια απλη καρτελλα αναπαραγωγης με τα βασικα στοιχεια για τους γεννητορες και τους νεοσσους. Απο την ημερα που εχει βγει το τριτο αυγο γνωριζεις την ημερομηνια επωασης,εκκολαψης και δαχτυλιδωματος, την σημειωνεις στην καρτελλα και ανατρεχεις τις καταλληλες ημερομηνιες για να πραξεις αναλογα.  Εχεις και το αρχειο με τα δαχτυλιδια των νεοσσων, τον αριθμο κλουβιου,τους γεννητορες οποτε στην ιδια σελιδα εχεις και τα αδερφια συγκεντρωτικα (σε περιπτωση που σταματας στις δυο γεννες).Αν δεν σας καλυψει η συγκεκριμενη,σιγουρα θα ειναι ενας καλος οδηγος για να φτιαξετε την δικη σας με τις καταλληλες προσθηκες βασει των αναγκων σας.Απλα τυπωστε το.


                                           ΚΑΡΤΕΛΛΑ ΑΝΑΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΗΣ

Black spot , an article by Dr Rob Marshall.

The difficulties experienced in the control of Black Spot in canaries maybe a result of the many possible causes of an enlarged spleen and liver.

Black Spot is a poorly understood but common finding in canary chicks (1-5 days of age) and juveniles (2-9 months of age). Black Spot refers to the symptom of a black spot on the abdomen of canaries that appears when the spleen, liver or both organs become enlarged because of infection. Black Spot occurs in all varieties of canaries and may spread from one variety to another.
The two main causes of Black Spot are Circovirus and Coccidiosis (Atoxoplasmosis). Oronithosis, bacterial septicaemias and other blood parasites (Avian Malaris (Plasmodium), Haemoproteus and Trypanosoma) may also cause Black Spot. German researchers believe Mycoplasma to be the main cause of Black Spot in Europe. Red mites, biting flies, mosquitos and house sparrows spread these blood parasites. Labored breathing is a symptom seen with these blood parasites.
Black Spot & Circovirus
Circovirus has been incriminated as a cause of the disease that kills nestlings between the ages of one and five days of age. Black Spot caused by Circovirus produces a black spot on the right side of the abdomen in those birds with the disease. Symptoms of Black Spot may appear in nestlings as young as one day of age. Infected nestlings are weak and fail to accept food from their parents, have an empty crop and eventually die by three to four days of age. This form of Black Spot is difficult to cure.
Black Spot & Mycoplasma Infection
European investigators believe there is a relationship between Black Spot and Mycoplasma infection. These researchers belive a Pre-Breeding Cleansing Program using Tylosine cleans the carrier birds of Mycoplasma infection. This treatment is thought to eliminate the Mycoplasma infection from the flock and control Black Spot during the breeding Season.
Black Spot and Coccidiosis (Atoxoplasmosis)
A blood form of Coccidiosis called Atoxoplasmosis may cause Black Spot. Coccidiosis infection caused by Isospora serini remains the most likely cause of the Black Spot disease in juveniles under a year of age. This disease is also known as Atoxoplasmosis. It is a coccidiosis parasite that differs from the common form of coccidiosis infection caused by Isospora canaria. Coccidiosis is normally restricted to the intestinal epithelium whereas Atoxoplasmosis (a form of coccidiosis caused by caused by Isospora serine) multiplies in the intestine, invades blood cells and then spreads by the blood stream to infect the liver, lung and spleen.
Atoxoplasmosis infection produces black spots on both sides of the abdomen, a sign that indicates both spleen and liver enlargement. Stoxoplasmosis is thought to be an intermediate form of part of the life cycle of Coccidiosis (Isospora spp).
Symptoms of Black Spot due to Atoxoplasmosis appear in birds under a year old. After this time adult birds may remain infected but show no outward signs of infection. Adult carriers may continue to be contagious for 8 months.
Infected youngsters become listless and huddle, ruffle their feathers into a ball, go light, develop a bloated abdomen, diarrhea and sometimes exhibit neurological signs. Mortality rates may reach as high as 80% of the young bird flock. Infection is more common in outdoor aviaries and crowded flights.
Carrier Birds
"Carrier Birds" are thought to infect their young when feeding. Both cock and hen may be carriers but more commonly the hen is the cause as she commonly rears them by herself. She may be continually re-infected by her own black spot germs (oocysts) while cleaning the nest of droppings. Black spot occurs more commonly in nests with a first time mother, hens older than three years of age and from a family known to be susceptible to Black spot. Conditions that weaken the immune system, namely Ornithosis, inbreeding and molding disease, may predispose the canary flock to black spot disease. In previously healthy flocks, Ornithosis and molding disease are the most likely triggers of the disease.
Diagnosis is difficult in the live bird because coccidial oocysts are rarely found in droppings or intestinal smears and because of the acute nature of the disease. Special impression smears taken from the lung, liver and spleen of dead birds help to diagnose Atoxoplasmosis.
Black Spot Control and Prevention
There is no medical cure of Black Spot. The best avenue is to eliminate those families susceptible to black spot and to control conditions that predispose canaries to this complex disease. Similar measures must be taken irrespective of the cause of black spot. Good hygiene, nutrition and disease prevention help control the Black Spot.
Good hygiene (e.g., F-Vite rather than grit), improved nutrition and disease control (Ornithosis treatments for the resident flock and for new birds in quarantine) play important roles in aviaries where black spot is an intermittent problem. The introduction of new birds that carry the disease, poor nutrition and hygiene, overcrowding or contaminated food are the common causes of black spot in flocks previously free of the disease. Pre-breeding programs aimed at eliminating disease such as Psittacosis and preparing the birds for breeding are an essential part in the control of black spot. The use of water cleansers, such as KD, and attention to strict hygienic in the preparation of soft food and sprouted seed also help to control black spot.
Black Spot Symptoms
Nest Signs
Black spot is more prevalent in the first and third rounds. This finding supports the view that the disease should be able to be controlled naturally in strong individuals when they are housed and looked after properly. Deaths of nestlings between one and five days of age should be assumed to be Black Spot until proven otherwise.
Eggs
Black spot should be considered as a cause of a green/black colored, pungent smelling fully developed embryo found in "dead in shell" eggs. Black Spot appears to have little effect on fertility.
Nestlings (0-5 days of age)
Black spot may be confirmed in nestlings between one and five days of age by the presence of the black spot on the abdomen. Some fanciers believe Black Spot occurs more frequently with poor parents because hand-feeding helps some infected chicks to survive. These chicks, however, remain "carriers" for life and pose a significant health risk when moved from the nest into weaning cages.
Many nests with Black Spot deaths also rear perfectly normal chicks. Some of these apparently healthy nestings may in fact be "carrier" birds and the cause of Black Spot outbreaks that occur in crowded juvenile flights.
Juveniles (2-9 months of age)
Black spot may also infect juveniles between two and nine months of age. The infected birds become fluffed up, have watery diarrhea and stop eating. Up to 80% of the flock may die from this incurable disease. A black spot (enlarged liver and spleen) and bloated abdomen (dilated bowel loops) are sign of Black Spot that may be seen through the transparent abdomen wall. Outbreaks occur in aviaries crowded with young birds where Black Spot has occurred during the breeding season. This type of Black Spot is related to Atoxoplasmosis.
Adult Birds
It appears that older birds acquire immunity to black spot with only carrier birds being susceptible to the disease when their health has been compromised.
Black Spot (Circovirus): Methods for Preventing

1. Identify and eliminate susceptible individuals and families.
2. Control diseases (Ornithosis, Molding Disease from contaminated sprouted seed, soft food or grit) that damage the immune system and predispose canaries to Black Spot.
3. Practice good hygiene, nutrition and quarantine measures.
4. Pay strict attention to the hygienic preparation of soft foods and sprouted seed to help avoid Molding Disease and E.coli infections.
5. Use Baycox as part of a control plan against Black Spot during the Young Bird, Molt and Pre- Breeding Programs.
6. Implement a Pre-Breeding Program that eliminates diseases such as Ornithosis and helps prepare birds for breeding.
7. Use KD Water Cleanser on a weekly basis.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Source :  http://ladygouldianfinch.com   (photo: www.Heidles.co.uk)